Viré-Clessé Quintaine Tradition 2013, Bongran
Viré-Clessé Quintaine Tradition 2013, BongranSenthøstet luksus Chardonnay fra Macons bedste producent. Ingen fad, men lang tids lagring sur lie. Gamle vinstokke med en gennemsnitsalder på omkring 50 år og enkelte stokke, der er over 100 år gamle.Imponerende og kompleks næse; lynghonning, mango, ingefær og toast. Smagen er ligeledes kompleks og dyb med en god syre og udtalt mineralitet. Meget lang eftersmag. Stor Chardonnay med et anderledes udtryk end de største hvidvine fra Côte de Beaune.
Klarer de mest komplekse retter, hvor hummer, kammusling, hvid fisk eller kylling spiller hovedrollen og gerne serveret med cremede saucer. Perfekt sammen med moden Comté, smørristet rugbrød og friskrevet trøffel.
ProducentenStor hvid Bourgogne fra Mâcon - rig og intens stil.
Thevenet høster meget sent og anvender lidt botrytiserede druer. Det giver fyldige, fede og komplekse hvidvine. Flotte anmeldelser i den danske og internationale vinpresse.Fælles for Domænerne Bongran, Emilian Gillet og Roally er, at de dyrkes økologisk uden dog at være certificerede. Jean Thevenet ønsker at sælge sine vine på kvaliteten og ikke på, om det er økologisk. Han var venner med Jules Chauvet - naturvinens fader og arbejder selv helt naturligt. Der svovles kun en anelse ved
AnmeldelserThe 2013 Viré-Clessé Cuvée E. J. Thevenet is another beautiful rendition of this consistently superb cuvée, wafting from the glass with a complex bouquet of orange zest, white flowers, beeswax, acacia honey and ripe lemon. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and concentrated, with lovely depth and succulence, concluding with a long and youthfully tense finish. It's already comparatively elegant and expressive by the standards of this estate, making it more approachable as a young wine than the 2012 or 2011 were at the same age, but it will enjoy two decades of longevity—indeed, it's only just being released by the domaine. 2013 was a challenging year in the Mâconnais, but this is the wine of the vintage. - William Kelley
90+ p. Vinous(the only cuvée made in 2013; from a very small, very ripe crop with a bit of noble rot): Medium gold-tinged yellow. Slightly exotic aromas of ripe yellow fruits with the beginnings of truffle and honeycomb. At once thick and racy, offering very concentrated, slightly aggressive yellow fruit and honey flavors with considerable alcoholic clout (actually 14.15%). There's enough supporting acidity to buffer the wine's 5.7 grams per liter residual sugar, and the wine finishes with its characteristic touch of marne bitterness. Still a bit reticent today. (I also retasted the 2012, which I rated 90+ last year. It showed a slightly lighter color than the '13 as well as more classic aromas of hazelnut and iodine and a flavor of yellow peach perfectly balanced by acidity. This complex, saline blend struck me as a bit more precise, refined and long than the 2013, but Thévenet maintained that the latter wine will be better in the long run because it has more personality from the botrytis. I found the '12 wonderfully balanced to enjoy now, but Gautier still finds it a bit young. On this occasion, I scored it 91.) - Stephen Tanzer
92 p. Wine Advocate (2011)The 2011 Viré-Clessé Quintaine Cuvée E.J. Thevenet comes from vines on Oxfordian limestone soils and is the one to go for if you like to keep your Mâconnais dry and without residual sugar. It has an absolutely divine bouquet that can barely contain its heady perfume of orange blossom, peppermint and wild fennel, just a smear of dried honey on top and maybe even a hint of truffle. This is so nuanced but, at the same time, very complex. The palate is well balanced with lemongrass and orange rind, marmalade surfacing midway through the experience. The acidity is very well judged and there is a very harmonious, almost Condrieu-like finish that has swagger and verve. What are you waiting for?...Grab some bottles. - Neal Martin
92 p. Vinous (2011)Paler in color than the 2011: light yellow with gold highlights. Sexy aromas of orange, stone fruits and truffle lifted by tangy botrytis tones. Sweet, silky and voluptuous (14.2% alcohol), boasting outstanding concentration and saline minerality. Slowly saturates the palate on the very long, wonderfully harmonious back end. Possesses healthy acidity (4.3 grams per liter) but shows a texture of liquid velvet. This is already accessible but will last for a long time in bottle. - Stephen Tanzer
17 p. JancisRobinson.com (2011)Lively and rich with some hazelnuts and real depth. Very difficult to spit this! Pure pleasure. Rich baked-apple flavours. - Jancis Robinson